-Archive your dreams-

 

Raf Simons is one of the most influential and innovative designers in contemporary fashion. Known for his minimalist yet deeply conceptual approach to design, he has reshaped the fashion industry with his unique interpretations of youth culture, subversive themes, and bold, futuristic aesthetics.

Simons' work combines avant-garde design with a nod to Belgian and international fashion sensibilities, creating a style that is intellectually driven, often blending youthful rebellion with high fashion craftsmanship.

 

 

 

Raf Simons was discovered by fashion icon Kathy Pilkington in the early '90s, who saw his potential as a designer. Initially starting in industrial design, his keen eye for fashion led him to create his first collection in 1995, eventually making waves in the fashion industry.

 

 

-The start-

 

Raf Simons debuted his first collection in 1995 a VHS recording of the models wearing Raf designs while walking and smoking. His early work as a designer was highly conceptual, with a strong emphasis on minimalist aesthetics and sharp tailoring. His collections often made references to youth culture, particularly punk, gothic, and grunge influences, blending menswear and streetwear elements into high fashion. 

 

 

 

In 1997 Raf Simons presented his first runway show in Paris for his own label in 1997. His collections immediately made an impact, not just for their fresh take on street style but also for their avant-garde approach to traditional tailoring.

 

 

In the 1990's Simons worked with key Belgian fashion figures, such as Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, who helped pave the way for the Belgian fashion wave that became globally influential.

 

- A Rebel -

 

In 1998 Raf was shocking the fashion industry again with his minimal style and his strong message, His raw looks and powerful environment around them made a shift on people's perception of menswear.

 

 

-Riot! Riot! Riot!-

 

Raf Simons' Fall/Winter 2001 menswear collection, titled Riot! Riot! Riot!, marked a pivotal moment in fashion history, showcasing a bold departure from his earlier minimalist designs.

After a year-long sabbatical, Simons returned to the runway with a collection that embraced oversized silhouettes and layered garments, reflecting a raw, anti-fashion aesthetic.

 

 

The collection was presented in a dark, industrial warehouse setting in Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris, featuring scaffolding, fog, and strobe lighting that complemented the dystopian atmosphere of the show. 

Models were cloaked in oversized bomber jackets, hooded parkas, and striped turtlenecks, many with scarves wrapped around their faces, evoking a sense of anonymity and rebellion.

 

ç

 

The garments were adorned with DIY-style graphics, including flyers for Sonic Youth and Joy Division concerts, posters from the film Christiane F., and images of the Manic Street Preachers, particularly referencing the disappearance of their guitarist Richey Edwards in 1995.

 

 

These elements underscored themes of obsession, intensity, and authenticity, reflecting the counter-cultural sentiments of the youth.

 

-Archives-

 

Raf Simons began incorporating his own archive concept into his eponymous label, Raf Simons, when he started building his brand’s identity.

For example, old collections were frequently referenced and recycled in his shows, both in subtle ways (like fabric manipulation) and directly (through reworked designs). This circular approach to design means that his collections weren’t one-off, standalone pieces but part of a larger, cohesive body of work that could be reinterpreted over time.

 

 

Reinventing past collections: Simons took pieces from previous seasons and remade or reinterpreted them, offering a sense of continuity. For example, designs from his earlier years were recontextualized and shown alongside more current collections, demonstrating his process of evolution and reinterpretation.

The archive concept allowed Raf Simons to build a heritage within his brand while still pushing boundaries with new ideas.

His incorporation of archived designs created a sense of heritage and brand continuity while keeping the designs innovative and relevant.

 

 

 

-Jil Sander-

From 2005 to 2012 Raf Simons took over as creative director at Jil Sander, he introduced a more structured, archive-driven approach to the brand's aesthetic.

 Jil Sander had always been synonymous with minimalism, and under Simons, he brought a sense of timelessness to the label by incorporating elements from past collections and reworking them for a contemporary audience.

 

 

 

Simons wasn't just reusing archived garments for the sake of nostalgia he was revitalizing them. His collections for Jil Sander consistently referenced past collections while staying firmly rooted in modernity, blurring the lines between heritage and progressive fashion.

His ability to extract relevant elements from the past and reintroduce them in a new context made him one of the first designers to fuse archives with future-forward design in a truly meaningful way.

 

 

 

 

-Dior-

 

One of Raf Simons’ most significant moments in the evolution of the archive concept came when he joined Christian Dior as creative director in 2012. Dior is a brand that has a rich historical archive, and Simons was tasked with the challenge of honoring the house’s legacy while infusing it with his own minimalist sensibilities.

 

 

 

 Raf Simons actively incorporated pieces from the Dior archive, such as Christian Dior’s original silhouettes, and reinterpreted them through his minimalist lens. For instance, Simons famously brought back elements of Dior’s iconic “New Look” (launched in 1947), a landmark moment in fashion history, and reworked it to feel contemporary.

 In the Spring/Summer 2014 collection for Dior, Simons incorporated references to Christian Dior's original designs, combining them with futuristic touches and a modernized, sleek silhouette. This collection marked a key moment where Simons paid homage to the house’s past while introducing innovative elements that would push the brand forward.

 

 

By blending new creations with historical references, Raf Simons successfully integrated the Dior archive into a broader narrative, using it to tell a story of evolution rather than mere replication.

 

 

Raf Simons, like many contemporary designers, has emphasized the importance of dialogue between the past, present, and future in fashion. This approach means that designs are not simply fleeting, seasonal creations but part of a larger narrative. Through his own collections and his work at high-profile fashion houses, Simons demonstrated that fashion can transcend its immediate time frame and become an ongoing conversation.

By looking back at the history of fashion design and integrating archival pieces or elements into new collections, Raf Simons redefined how timelessness is perceived in the industry. His archives often reference previous collections, art movements, subcultures, and personal memories, creating a sense of continuity and meaning.

Raf Simons has established himself as a master of modern minimalism and youth-driven design, with a career marked by pivotal roles at prestigious fashion houses and groundbreaking collections.

 From his early days as an independent designer to his transformative work at Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein, Simons continues to shape the landscape of contemporary fashion. His work fuses conceptual design, artistic expression, and cultural commentary, making him one of the most important figures in the fashion world today.